Auld Lang Syne played using midi to CNC on my MakerBot Thing-O-Matic.

I was having trouble with tall prints on the Automated Build Platform. I cut the belt off of it and removed the rollers and motor.  Then I covered the surface with Kaplon tape.  I ordered a alumium build plate, but I am waiting for it to arrive from the UK (MakerBot was sold out).  My print quality is already better and my rafts separate from the print much more easily.

I have assembled my Thing-o-matic and she is now operational.  However, she had some issues along the way. Here is what the problems were and how I fixed them.

My Configuration:

• MK7 extruder
• ABP
• MakerBot Motherboard v2.x (Gen4) with Mega 2560 (latest version of firmware)
• Extruder Controller v.3.X (Gen 4) (latest version of firmware)
• ReplicatorG 0028

System Information
 ReplicatorG version: 0028
 Java version: 1.6.0_29

Machine
 Profile Name: Thingomatic w/ ABP and Stepstruder MK7
 Driver Type: Makerbot4GAlternate
 Name: Thingomatic w/ ABP and Stepstruder MK7
 Motherboard firmware version: Unknown v3.1
 Motherboard communication statistics
  Number of packets received from the USB interface:0
  Number of packets sent over the RS485 interface:147081
  Number of packets sent over the RS485 interface that were not responded to:5
  Number of packet retries attempted:25
  Number of bytes received over the RS485 interface that were discarded as noise:0

Problem 1: When trying to print, Bot stops after homing

• When I try to print, the axes home, then stop. All red LEDs are on for each of the mechanical endstops.
• After about 4 minutes, there is an audible click and the red light turns on the  safety cutoff.  Nothing else happens.

What I have tried:

1. I ran the calibration script.

2. I tried making the offset settings for each axis 2mm less.  No change.

Solution:

The temp sensor was too hot.  I added a second layer of ceramic insulation to the Mk7 head under the temp sensor (in addition to the layer that MakerBot says to add).  This solved the “homing, then stopping” problem.  http://www.makerbot.com/docs/thingomatic/instructions-for-educators/stepstruder-mk7-assembly/  3/4 of the way down the page, under the  “Insulate the Heater” heading, the process is described.  If you have already taped up your print head, untape it, remove the temp sensor, add a second layer of insulation between the heater block and the temp sensor. Re-tape.

Problem 2: ABP motor does not work, platform will not heat

1. The ABP will not heat and the ABP motor will not move.

What I have tried so far:

1. Checking the wiring on the extruder controller.  (many times). It is wired up like this: http://www.makerbot.com/docs/thingomatic/instructions-for-educators/electronics/
2. When I click the “enable” boxes for the build platform belt and the cooling fan, the appropriate LEDs light up on the extruder board, but nothing happens.

Solution:

I had plugged the cable in backwards into the ABP.  The cable gets plugged into the ABP with the ramp side up and the holes facing down. The platform heated after I reversed the cable orientation.  I found this orientation hard to see in the MakerBot build instructions.  See pic below for the right orientation.

Right Way

MakerBot 6066 is assembled, but not yet functional.

A few months ago, when I was at the Haystack Mountain School of Crafts, I cut a side table out of oak plywood on their ShopBot.  I finished the table a month later with a combination of cherry and black walnut wood stain and a final coat of varnish.  These pictures show the final result. This table is currently on display at the Better World by Design Conference.

I heard that MakerBot owners had achieved some great results by using Watco Danish Oil to treat / stain / finish their MakerBots.  I used “Golden Oak” and then did a second coat of “Cherry” over each plywood piece.   In the image below, you can see the difference between the treated and untreated plywood.  I am pleased with the final results, the Watco Danish Oil really brought out the wood grain.

So its Halloween…. Better plan all week, better plan all month, better plan all year……

Soft circuits LED oni costume in action. Sewn with conductive thread, LEDs slowly fade in and out and are controlled by an Lilypad Arduino and powered by a Lilypad LiPower supply. The dress will run for at least 11 hours continuously. It may run much longer than that, but I haven’t tested it for longer than 11 hours.

The earirngs are basically throwies (LEDs taped to a coin cell battery) with earring hooks attached with coat-weight thread.  The necklace is four Lillypad LEDs wired with conductive thread in parallel to a coin cell battery.

We teach anyone how to make almost anything

The Providence Fab Academy will return for its third year on January 2, 2012 through June 30, 2012.   Classes will be held in Providence, RI at AS220 Labs (a personal digital fabrication lab or “Fab Lab”).  This year I am coordinating the Providence branch of the Fab Academy and providing local instruction.

The Fab Academy is a Digital Fabrication Program directed by Neil Gershenfeld of  MIT’s Center for Bits and Atoms and based on MIT’s rapid prototyping course, MAS 863: How to Make (Almost) Anything. The Fab Academy began as an outreach project from the CBA, and has since spread to Fab Labs around the world. The program provides advanced digital fabrication instruction for students through an unique, hands-on curriculum and access to technological tools and resources.

For the past two years AS220 Labs has collaborated with MIT’s Center for Bits and Atoms in offering the Providence Fab Academy.  Our lab in Providence is part of a global Fab Lab / Fab Academy network. The Providence branch of the Fab Academy works with other participating Fab Labs and experts from around the wold via a distributed educational model where we pool our knowledge to provide a unique educational experience.

Learn to turn codes into things

At the Fab Academy, you will learn how to envision, prototype and document your ideas through many hours of hands-on experience with digital fabrication tools.  We take a variety of code formats and turn them into physical objects.

Students will learn to use the following tools:  Epilog Mini Laser Cutter, Roland MDX-20 Milling Machine, and the Roland CAMM-1 Servo GX-24 Desktop Vinyl Cutter, MakerBot 3D printer and a ShopBot CNC router.

The topics covered in this course include:  digital fabrication principles and practices, computer-controlled cutting, electronics design and production, embedded programming, 3D scanning and printing, mold making and casting.

Now Accepting Applications for 2012

The Providence, RI branch of the Fab Academy is now accepting applications for the 2012 session taking place from January 2 2010 – June 30, 2012.    The deadline for applications is December 10th.  However, applications will be processed as they are submitted and class size is limited.

For more information, visit our site at http://www.as220.org/fabacademy.

If you have any additional questions, contact me, (Anna Kaziunas France) at anna@as220.org.

During the pre-RI Mini Maker Faire party at AS220 Labs, Kipp Bradford explains his open-source, hackable 2000BTU cooling system. Look for it at RI Mini Maker Faire and at Maker Faire NY. For more information contact Kipp at: www.kippworks.com

Michael Rule was kind and ambitious enough to breathe new life into our old broken-down Makerbot. I made a 3D print of some spikes I designed in Rhino as a test print.

Spikes 3D Model

Printing Spikes on the Makerbot

Final Print

I used Flexwax to create a composite wax mold from a old glass liquor bottle my grandmother gave me.  I heated up the wax, then brushed it onto the glass.  After I had built up a sizable layer, I wrapped cheesecloth around the wax to strengthen the mold.  I then reapplied another layer of wax.  I repeated this process twice.

After the composite mold hardened, I cut it open down the side and removed the glass bottle.  I then took a coat hanger and bent it into a stand so I could pour the Hydrostone into the mold.  After the mold was poured, I cut open the wax mold (again) to remove the final Hydrostone cast.